The Importance of Body Language in Fashion Photography - Helmut Newton and Mario Testino
Fashion photography is not about displaying clothes but about telling a story. The talent to show the body language of photographers brings out emotions, intentions, and cultural assertions that could never be integrated into a piece of clothing. Body language can recreate power, weakness, sexuality, or even joy. As a result, a fashion photograph has a proverbial power to drive hidden meaning about the person showcasing their point of view.
Helmut Newton (Early Work): Bold, Black & White, Strong, Dramatic Poses Showing Power and Sexuality
The initial fashion photography of Helmut Newton was stark black-and-white contrasted but also sexually suggestive. He used very bold, exaggerated poses, and in many of his subjects, he placed them in situations that implied power, control, or sexuality. Newton also broke gender norms and traditional gender roles in fashion photography, especially during his work in the 1970s and 1980s. The exaggerated power structures featured in his models are mirrored like the iconic Big Nudes series, where his models assume sculptural positions reminiscent of statues and exaggerate their bodies and bodies (Ferenc, 2018).
Figure 1: Helmut Newton's black and white photography
Memorable Production: The Newton Big Nudes series and his photography of such icons as Catherine Deneuve are some of the best examples of how different Newton is when it comes to body language. The positions are precise and defined, which underpin the ideas of seduction, independence, and sexual freedom.
Figure 2: Newton's Catherine Deneuve photo
Newton (Later Work): Softer Lighting, Color Shots, More Storytelling and Playful Moods
During his later years, the style of Newton changed towards the appearance of softer lighting, color photography, and more narrative nature. Though continuing to apply his trademark boldness, his later work expressed lighter and less combative tones much more frequently. The poses that were depicted in these photos were less tense, though they retained the flair that he was remembered by. A more subtle exploration of intimacy and sensuality also appeared in the work of Newton, as it inclined more toward the direction of storytelling than simply exemplifying a striking image (Mendes, 2018).
Figure 3: intimacy and sensuality photo by Newton
Mario Testino (Contemporary): Bright, Colorful, Natural Poses that Feel Joyful and Glamorous
Unlike Newton's sculptural and body-intense attitudes, Mario Testino's presence in the establishment of contemporary fashion photography reflects the complimentary colors, natural light, and easy and happy body motion. The pictures of Testino are full of glamour and vitality, and models are frequently captured in inorganic situations. His body language is relaxed and lets you feel the meditation of happiness, liberation, and sexuality. This also earned him popularity in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair (Schroeder, 2013).
Figure 4: Mario Testino’s contemporary photography
Vogue covers, shot between 1993 and 1995 by Testino of Kate Moss, his Towel Series, and Vanity Fair shots take fluid (and relaxed) poses that give a nonchalant look of ease. His models are commonly depicted in close-to-life situations, and their body language carries the attitude of approachability and sincerity.
Comparison in Body Language: Newton's sculptured and intense poses are compared to Testino's loose and fluid gestures.
The significant contrast between Newton's photography and Testino's is their use of body language. Newton's earlier work consisted of rigorous and intense poses that appear stiff. In contrast, the latter features women with more natural poses that are also lighter and smoother in their movements. Testino, conversely, succeeds in photography by making it as natural and fluid as possible, permitting spontaneous and playful movements that enable the models to communicate with their environments and even with each other.
Newton Method: The poses are very stylized, indicating strength and power, mainly with the rigid poses.
The Style of Testino: Uncaused, free-spirited poses with the contemporary feel of casualness and attitude.
Editorial Examples
Newton Big Nudes: These portraits depict extreme contrast and exaggerated body language, which are iconic. The nudity of these portraits is more related to the issue of power relations and the art of representation of the human body.
Figure 5: Newton Big Nudes
Testino Vogue Covers with Kate Moss: In her covers with Moss, Testino uses very casual angles. The body language is self-confident but not forced, displaying the more accessible glamour.
Figure 6: Testino Vogue Covers with Kate Moss
Testino Towel Series 12 -It is a set of impulsive, personal shots with natural body language that is unrestrained and in control, expressing the freedom of play of fashion and model ease.
Figure 8: Testino Towel Series 12
Vanity Fair Shoots by Testino: His Vanity Fair shoot is full of animation and vital poses that depict glamour without the levity of posed perfection.
Figure 9: Vanity Fair Shoots by Testino
Figure 10: Mario Testino's Gisele Bündchen
Personal Note: How are we Affected by These Photographers in our Personal Perception of Fashion and Movement
Helmut Newton and Mario Testino have influenced us by bringing life and emotion into fashion photography based on body language. Newton's artistically daring, and yet strong stances became a source of admiration of fashion as the means of distinct storytelling, and the casual yet truly natural style of Testino made us realize the role of spontaneity and beauty of real life in fashion. Through their work, we have learned that fashion goes beyond clothes and more so on how clothes relate to the body and the feeling they evoke in the wearer.
Body language has been a running theme in fashion photography, whether in the sculptural intensity of Newton or the natural glamour of Testino. This transformation of stiff, authoritative postures to perky, pleasure-seeking motions reflects on the changes that have taken place in the entire culture of fashion, in which expression and personal style have come to play as crucial roles as the clothing itself. With the help of these photographers, we can observe that body language can be used creatively to express both antique strength and contemporary playfulness, which is an effective way of expressing emotions and the life story in the visual history of fashion.
References
Ferenc, T. (2018). Nudity, Sexuality, Photography. Visual Redefinition of the Body. Qualitative Sociology Review, 14(2), 96-114.
Mendes, L. D. (2019). Helmut Newton: a shift in femininity portrayal in fashion photography.
Schroeder, J. (2013). Snapshot aesthetics and the strategic imagination.